A blouse makes a saree yours. Here are the necklines, backs and sleeves you will hear about at any tailor's, with what each tends to suit. Treat them as a starting point: the right one is the one you feel good in.
General guidance Ways of wearing vary by family, region and fabric. Take what helps and wear it your way.
Front necklines
Round
Suits most shapes and fabrics; a safe first choice for everyday and silk sarees alike.
U neck
Lengthens the neck and frames a necklace; choose the depth you are comfortable with.
V neck
Makes a short neck or a round face look longer; keep it shallow for the office.
Sweetheart
Soft and festive, lovely with a fuller bust; needs a good fit and often padding.
Boat neck
Wide and shallow, flattering on narrow shoulders; pair with earrings rather than a necklace.
Square
Clean lines that balance broad shoulders and suit heavy borders and zari work.
High neck
Elegant with sheer and light sarees and for winter evenings; best on a longer neck.
Back designs
Seen from the back. The back is what people see most during a ceremony, so it is worth a little thought.
Deep U back
A classic for festive sarees and the Gujarati drape, which leaves the back on show.
Keyhole
A small cut-out under a closed neck: dressy but covered; a button or hook closes the top.
Dori (tie-back)
Ties at the back with tasselled cords: easy to adjust and pretty for haldi, mehendi and sangeet.
Sleeve lengths
Sleeveless
Cool in summer and at sangeet nights; works with sheer and light sarees.
Cap sleeves
Just covers the shoulder: light and modern, good for everyday wear.
Short sleeves
The everyday classic; ends a little above the elbow and suits almost everyone.
Elbow length
Graceful with silk and festive sarees, and kind to the upper arms.
Three-quarter
Traditional and elegant, lovely with Kanjivaram and Banarasi silks; leave room to bend.
Full sleeves
Regal for winter weddings and with sheer fabric; ask for a zip or buttons at the wrist.
Before the tailor
- Measure well
- A blouse needs more than bust and waist: shoulder, armhole, sleeve length and round, and the front and back neck depths. The size guide shows how to take each one.
- Fabric decides
- Stiff silk holds a square or boat neck crisply; soft georgette suits gentle curves like the U and sweetheart.
- Lining and fastening
- A cotton lining makes a blouse comfortable and helps it keep its shape. Hooks at the front are traditional; a back zip or dori suits deep fronts.
- Balance
- A deep back usually pairs with a modest front, and the other way round. Heavy sleeves look best with a simple neckline.